RumRunner - Eleanore's Blog

Coffee plantation

2012-01-28T06:46:00.001-08:00

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School dropout

2012-01-28T06:37:00.001-08:00

Just became a school dropout. Hitting the road to see Toros tonight, and off to Nicaragua on Tuesday!

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Location:Samara

Ants

2012-01-27T10:04:00.001-08:00

I am sick of ants using my body as a super highway. And those mother fuckers bite. Carl, you would not be happy... Sun and ants, your 2 enemies....

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Location:Samara

One more shot

2012-01-26T06:51:00.001-08:00

I like this shot of Carola scoping out the very busy dining room, while the band plays and the customers are crazed.

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Location:Cafe Carola

Tres caballeros

2012-01-26T06:45:00.001-08:00

Carola making dinner in her cafe:

Tres Caballeros:

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Location:Samara

Putin pics

2012-01-26T06:30:00.001-08:00

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Location:Cafe Carola

Vladimir Putin

2012-01-26T06:25:00.001-08:00

Yesterday after school, after a crappy all around day, in class and at the beach ( stupid French guy yelled at me 2x because I was swimming too close to him and his wife - prick) I went to Cafe Carola and met Vladimir. She is female, but she is so tough that she can lead Moscow. She beats up the neighborhood dogs she does not like. She made my day better. You can't say that about her namesake now can you.

She also got to eat filet mignon last night. One of the locals had Carola's special, filet with a butter cream sauce and potatoes, and fed the last bites to Vladamir. She was a very pleased cat.

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Location:Calle Intercultura,Sámara,Costa Rica

Urst said it best

2012-01-25T13:59:00.001-08:00

My friend Urst said it best today "I got a school hangover." He is feeling the same thing today that I am feeling: tired of school, sick of classes, the surf kind of sucks, it was better last week, I don't want to do anything. I might skip futbol tonight, just because I should study more, and sleep a little longer. I just feel tired and grumpy.

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Location:Samara

School....

2012-01-25T05:31:00.001-08:00

Only 8 more days of class. Anyone who knows me well, knows that I love to learn, but hate classrooms and hates school. Sometimes it is necessary.... But man oh man, I am ready to be done.

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Location:Samara

MamaGui Bistro

2012-01-23T18:33:00.001-08:00

MamaGui bistro - good wine, very good prices, homemade burger and pizza

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Location:Samara

Picture of Ella

2012-01-23T17:48:00.001-08:00

Ella at the small island. She is from Victoria ( I always sing that name with the Kinks song - Victoria!)

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Location:Samara

Lonely planet pt 2

2012-01-23T17:46:00.001-08:00

I met up will Ella at MamaGui accidentally. After my mojito at Gusta Beach I headed to the French Canadian cafe for an American burger and wifi. And in she walked alone and sat right across from me, not even realizing it. I was so happy to see her. I had just emailed her photos of her and the dolphins, since her camera had stooped working.

I ordered my burger and she ordered buttered gnocchi. We swapped stories of the boat, she filling me in on the almost capsized that I could not see from the water, and me asking a million questions.

In the early 60's she and a group of catholic school girls, her classmates, all took a bus to Disneyland, and on the way they stopped in San Francisco. At the time she was sporting the most Mod of dress. She had hot pink bell bottoms with lime green polkadots, and big chunky plastic hot pink earrings, and a black tunic top with white plastic buttons. She also had hot pi k,lime and orange mini skirts, but not obscenely short, just above the knee. She was a dish way back then. Now she is an ambitious dignified lady with a little bit of Parkansins in the hands.

She and I spend a fab Saturday together and then spend a great Monday dinner together. The Ella's and Elle's of the world unite!

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Location:Calle Intercultura,Sámara,Costa Rica

Elle's version of Lonely Planet

2012-01-23T17:37:00.001-08:00

Since I am living with a local family, I have not taken advantage of the night life, or sampled the restaurants, to a large extent. But this Monday night I am foot loose and fancy free. Mi familia is en san Jose, so I am going out to dinner.

My first spot was to buy groceries, thinking I would make a sandwich and have a beer, on the beach, watching the tide go out. The main grocery store sounds like a Hawaiian goddess, the Pali ( or at least a main freeway on Oahu). The Pali is located right off the main road, and is easy to locate due to the big orange sign. I bought the staples: ham, bread, mayo, beer, and a few avocados.

I headed back to school and put my purchases in the fridge, and headed out to Gusto Beach, the trendy cocktail beach bar. This bar features mixed fruity drinks and non alcoholic juices, bean bags on the sandy beach, and games you can rent, such as volleyball, and futbol. I took in a mojito champagne cocktail and discussed plans for the weekend with mis amigos, and then headed out for some real food.

I took a couch at Mama GUI, the French, Belgian, Canadian, bistro on the same street as the Pali. This cafe has freshly made to order pizza, and fresh burgers that are not over cooked. The fries are crispy and salty, and the wine is perfect Italian table wine. And all of this for under 10,000 colon. My husband would approve of the burger - fresh, not frozen meat. And wifi. And I ran into 3 different friend I had just met over the weekend.

2 of my new friend are from Ontario and are buying a winter home here. The second I had spent last saturday with on a boat. Her name is Ella, like Ella FitzgerAld. She is from Victoria, Canada ( like the Kinks - Victoria!) She is about 70, and has a spirit for travel and adventure, but knows her limits. She and I shared a seat on the fishing boat on Saturday and I helped her take photos and spot dolphins. We swapped travel stories and she gave me food reviews (since I have not had a chance to eat out). I emailed her a bunch of fantastic photos of the little island that Marcus our fishing guide took us, a small island off the mainland, that you cannot see the private beach unless you are on the pacific side.

At dinner she told me stories of our trip that she could see that I could not, since she remained in the boat, and I went swimming in the protective lagoon created by the island. Apparently, our shipmates almost tipped the boat when they tried to get back in the boat. I was almost under the boat at the time pushing on butts, so I had no idea... We had 3 land lubbers with us who claimed they could swim and got in a little over their heads. But al is well that ends well. No one drowned, and no one was left on the island. (however Marcus volunteered to leave me there to swim more while he took the land lubbers home to their Resort. He and I are amigos now and plan on working together next weekend on organizing another tour...)

Lea
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Location:Samara

Almost killed hoy

2012-01-23T11:09:00.001-08:00

Today I was 1 second away from death. This coco dropped and landed in front of me. If it had hit me on the head, who knows... It is a good one, full of fresh water and coconut. I will eat my enemy tonight!

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Location:Samara

Boat to the island

2012-01-23T08:16:00.001-08:00

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Location:Samara costa rica

Amiga's injury

2012-01-22T05:05:00.000-08:00

One of mi amiga's here at school injured her foot last Wednesday at the soccer match. She is an ex-college soccer player who was going pro, but got injured out of a soccer career. So she is very athletic, and very talented at futbol. By just a random fluke of the ball, she took a pass too hard and got a bone bruise on her right foot at the ankle bone. It swelled up into an orange size bulb immediately. I got her ice and she tried to do damage control, but 3 days later it is still killing her, and is purple. ( which is actually a good sign, it is getting better.) But... By random luck, she stepped on some vegetation and got a puncture right where the bruise was, and that became infected. Again there was damage control, antibiotics you can get over the counter. (stupid USA - you would have to go to the ER for $1000 for stupid $5 antibiotics. Here, you just go get them. 10 minutes, done. ) (maybe Americans need to be taught what an infection looks like too. Us atheletes can see the puss and pink spider veins.)

Hopefully it will be better by Wednesday. It would kill her not to play this week.

*****

Yesterday I got in my first costa rican long run. About 10 miles to the beach next to us, la playa Carrillo. There was a triathlon being set up. I was hoping to see the event; I got there around 7 am. However, to my shock, the race was not to start until 2 pm. That's crazy! It is 95f at that time, and just a balmy 75f at 7am. What were they thinking!

Intercultura

2012-01-20T12:23:00.000-08:00

I passed my second exam today!

This was a big deal for me. This week has been very difficult. I am not gifted in language abilities. I can talk like I kissed the blarney stone, but grammar has always eluded me. In my native language. So in Spanish, grammar is a double whammy.

I studied about 2.5 hours last night, using law school methods, charting out grammar in multiple colored graphs. I got a good night sleep, a very light breakfast, and got to school early. (I have bad luck on test days - long story. I have to be at a test site very early) The test was 1.5 hours. I used up every second. I barely completed the test. Skin of my teeth.

After the test there was a 2-3 hour wait for grades and next weeks class placement. I really wanted to pass so I could be placed In the same class as mis amigos. I waited. I waited. I waited.

I passes! Got the same grades as mis amigos! But.... We are still separated ;( numbers game. We are separated because of other factors ;(
I get to make new friends ;)

What I can say is this: Intercultura is a very good language school. You get exactly what they advertise. The classes are small and very interactive. It is immersive - 100% in Spanish. No cheating. This may leave the noob frustrated, but if the noob let's their guard down, plays the fool and vocalizes, the learning curve shortens. The classes are well structured, and the teachers are very good, dynamic, and patient. The classes are hard ; this is not a day at the beach, even if it is a school on the beach. Expect 4 hours of class a day, 2 hours of homework a day, and then extra conversation lessons, in a method of your choice. This leaves you no time to party, just eat and sleep, and maybe a workout or run. This is a throwback to high school, if you were a good student. (which I was not). I highly recommend the school, but go in understanding what this is, or you will be frustrated. You will work hard. You may fail. You will learn Spanish. You will live in one of the best beaches I have ever seen (and I have family in Hawaii).

The school also offers social events; I have skipped all of the daily events due to homework. I did participate in the weekend event, and it was totally awesome! Way better that what was advertised.

I would totally come back to this school. And Samara, la playa and pueblo, are totally awesome, a secret that hopefully will keep quiet so it does not get a hotel and huge buses. Very laid back, safe, and perfect beginner surf, an empty Waikiki. ( with waves slightly bigger than Waikiki at high tide)

Exams...

2012-01-20T05:29:00.001-08:00

I am totally panicking over this grammar exam.....

Libre!

2012-01-18T12:03:00.000-08:00

So after a very stressful 4 hour class (todo en espanol) I wanted to be alone with my thoughts, and get a beer (which is not permitted at mi casa por AA). None of us students have gone to the reggae bar next door, I don't know why. I just discovered it is fricken awesome! They only speak Spanish, they only play reggae, and the prices are good. They have wifi; when I asked what the password was, the bartender said "libre". I thought that "libre" was the password, but no, they have totally free wifi anyone can steal or use, even if your a bum on the beach. They practice their religion, as to wifi at least! ( they just lit up.... Why are there no students here?)

2012-01-17T13:16:00.001-08:00

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Cansado pt 3

2012-01-17T10:41:00.000-08:00

Domingo, Sunday, after eggs and coffee, we headed out to rio Fontana, a local watering hole, public, with a rope swing over the river. I love me a river and river swing. I'll post some unflattering photos of me swinging out over the river. You get a good view of my big butt. Then it was off to volcano Arenal.

Arenal is currently dormant, however it has been very recently active, just last in October of 2010. Since it can start gassing and fuming at any time you cannot hike the whole thing. It is a traditional cone volcano, the kind of picture books. It killed a bunch of people in 2010, from the sulfer fumes. We hiked about 2 miles to a good viewing site. The hike itself is famous; on a good day you can see toucans and sloths. We just saw some fancy birds. Still very cool.

We hit the city of fortuna and the good coffee shops. The only souvenirs I have is the memory of great coffee and some photos.

I'll post some photos of my butt.

Cansado pt 2

2012-01-16T05:54:00.000-08:00

After the futbol, we got back on the crazy, could kill you, single track on a steep mountain road, to our next connection, a a flat bottom boat to take us across the mane made lake arenal, to our next hotel. Lake Arenal is a man-made lake at the base of Arenal volcano. This lake produces 70% of costa rica's electricity, for both internal use and for export, mainly to Nicaragua. This lake is also famous for windsurfing. This area is a rainforest, so our ride looked like a scene from Apacalypse Now. They do have crocs all over costa rica, but we did not see any in the lake.

We checked into a very cute bungalow style hotel, Jardine Hotel, near the many famous hot springs and spas. The famous, such as Bill Gates and Will Smith come to this area to enjoy the volcanic hot springs. And so did we! After checking into the hotel, we headed off to Baldi spa. It was one of our chicas 26th birthday, so we enjoyed a free la leche cake with our grand buffet dinner.

Cansado

2012-01-16T05:40:00.000-08:00

Muy cansado, very tired, due to the extreme weekend I just experienced. After class on Friday, a group of eight of us, 7 chicas, and Iko or German token male, took a private tour to the interior of costa rica. The afternoon started off on a very long, serpintine, rough and bumpy ride to Monteverde, famous for their canopy zip-line tours. That Friday we ate at Tico yRica, a local eatery, then hit the not happening disco tech, got hit on by very very drunk argentinians, and to bed early.

The next morning, after an early breakfast, we speed off to the Monteverde Extremo! Park. Yes, I did 16 zip lines above the jungle canopy, and a 30 meter repel. Yes I am terrified of hights, but this was a once in a lifetime experience and I did not want to miss out because of fear. So I sucked it up, and, surprise, no vertigo, just a great time. I bought the photos the guides take, so I have proof thit I actually did this.

While waiting for our bus, some of the group played an impromptu game of futbol with the Extremo! Guides. The

Mi Tica familia pt 2

2012-01-12T12:25:00.000-08:00

I am getting to know my Tica mama better. She is a wonderful warm hearted women, but wound up pretty tight. She is losing her hair due to stress. It sounds like stress includes family and friends,and the responsibilities of being a matriarch. Last night she cooked and hosted for 19, and this was just a Wednesday. Tonight she is running an AA meeting, which, it appears she does numerous nights a week. With my cover of being a dedicated runner and very studious student, I have been able to avoid too much interaction and conversation with the hangers in and out.

She is very attentive to my needs; she makes me breakfast and dinner everyday, and does my laundry. I have not experienced this since I was maybe 10 years old. I have tried to make things easy for her by being a worry free guest. I always tell her where I am going and when I will be back, and I stick to it. I know that reliability takes away stress, and that is the one thing I can do for her.

Futbol

2012-01-12T11:50:00.000-08:00

Every wednesday our school has an evening soccer game, students vs teachers. I, of coarse, had to sign up to play. Now, I have not played a real game of soccer in 10 years. The last time I had played a real game was when I was studying abroad in England, where we had pick up games a few times a week, which we took somewhat seriously. So my own expectation of performance was low, and the embarrassment factor high.

The game was scheduled for 8:00 pm, which means that play would last way past my bedtime, insuring that my performance not be too sharp. Not to mention, I had a 5 mile run at 6 am, and a full day of classes, homework, and conversation with my host mama. After dinner with mama, I headed out alone, onto the dark, dusty streets of Samara. I had a hand drawn map from Julio, one of the teachers, that accurately depicted the back streets of the pueblo, pointing out landmarks such as the river with crocodiles, and the helado shop. The picture depicted a path off the road with curly swirly trees.

One can see all the equatorial stars, since there are no big cities near by, just the emptiness of the Pacific ocean. The moon was almost full, illumination the roads. About half a mile into the stroll to the game I met up with 3 other American students, 2 guys and a gala, who had gone to undergrad together, and had meet up to do some Central American touring together. They were tossing around an American football, which scared me a little - I cannot play American football. But they had only brought along the ball for fun, in case the futbal game didn't work out. Their fears were misplaced; the field was a professional indoor style, placed outdoors, meaning a half sized field with AstroTurf and field lighting.

About 12 students showed up for serious play and about 6 teachers. We made up 3 teams of 5, with the remainders tagging in and out when someone needed a breather. Two teams play, winner play the third. I ended up as keeper, since 1. I am old, and 2. No one wants to be keeper. I actually impressed some folks; I could overhear others saying I was pretty good. Truth was, I did some very good saves, when I did not use my hands. I was not great, but I held my own, and think that next week no one will reject me from the team. I did play wing a few minutes here and there to give someone a breather, but my sprinting is not so good.

The teachers won all the games, but us foreigners gave them a run for their money. We played till a team scored 3, and our first game was close and ran 30 minutes, which, on a half field is tough and fast play. And this is central America; it was 90 f and humid. My team consisted of me, 2 other Americans and 2 Swiss. None of us were used to the heat and humidity. We looked as if we had just come in from a rainstorm.

On the walk home I got to speak to my teammates from Germany, Switzerland, and Quebec. Annie, from Quebec, barely speaks English; our common language is now Spanish. She and I are taking a trip to Monteverde and Arenal volcano this weekend. With Spanish our only common toungue, my Spanish will be forced to improve.

Mi Tica Familia

2012-01-11T08:53:00.000-08:00

Last night I had dinner conversation en espanol with my host mama, and now I know why the family is so strict - mama has been in AA for 19 years dry and her husband 15 years dry. I am going to be extremely respectful (but get a beer after soccer with the students, and brush my teeth before going home, on time or early. No late nights for me). Also mama goes to the USA for AA in Miami, so I am sure she knows some English, so I will make sure I always speak with respect, at all times. The village is very small,so everyone knows everyone's business. I am sure that's why when I told a couple local gringos where I was staying ( after hearing their wild party stories) they gave me weird looks. The gringos may think I am a teetotaler. So not true, but I want to be respectful, so I am going to be very careful not to do anything around town that the family could hear about and be ashamed, or try to get me to go to church, or something. On The flip side, my house has great food, and very clean. The house is more of a little hacienda, or villa, full of plants. The have a washing machine, 2 large kitchens, large living room, a veranda, little dog, garden. Yep, my house is way cool! (it reminds me of Andrea's parents house, if in a Spanish style hacienda.)

Also mama has 2 sisters in the USA, one in Michigan and one in Wisconsin. I told her I was born on Michigan, but prefer California because of sun and my dislike of cold.

It is going To be a weird month! But for learning Spanish, I got the best deal, strict family that loves to cook, and a quiet home. The opposite of me, really, but good for learning. Oh I also got a 5 mile run in today. The family respects running. So looks like I'll get in my training without a problem. The heat is good for thinking about the Hawaii marathon!

Tasty waves

2012-01-10T12:44:00.000-08:00

Day two of school was just as hard. Class got out at noon and I ran a few errand waiting for the tide to come in. It was worth the wait; I caught 4 waves body surfing. Nice size waves, about a California 1 foot or a Hawaii half foot to one foot. There were a few really good sets. One of the local Ticas told me I was good, being nice, and then gave me some good tips. Samara is a gentle sandy break, no rocks or coral, and the break slowly pulls long shore as the tide moves in. When the tide is out, no waves. When the tide is in, nice sets curl in gently and break a little distant off shore, enough to hinder non swimmers.

Today I signed up to play in tomorrow's soccer futbol game, as well as a bicycle tour thursday, and Friday I will leave for a 3 day excursion to monteverde and arsenal volcano tour.

Homestay

2012-01-09T07:25:00.000-08:00

Sunday afternoon I moved in with a local couple, M and J, a pleasant middle aged couple, who live outside of town, but walking distance from both the school and the beach. M, the house-mom is neat a a pin, and a very enthusiastic cook. The casa is new and spotless; this couple is much classier than myself, so I am on my best behavior. They have family, 5 brothers who live down the street. They do not speak any English, so every moment I am working hard to comprehend, so the brain cannot take a moment off to rest. I have a private bedroom and bathroom, both very clean and new, that smell of fresh cedar and teak. They own an aged terrier named Terry who is a sweet heart. M has an extensive garden, and a lovely lanai for reading and study. M has already cooked me 2 meals -she has 2 huge kitchens- she is very serious about cooking and gardening!

Monday morning at 7 am was my first day of classes. I am a total beginner; it is going to be very intense. Total immersion, no English. This school is hardcore; this is very evident. So it appears the next month will be 24-7 en espanol!

Casa carola

2012-01-08T08:13:00.000-08:00

Yesterday was my first proper full day in Samara. I did the usual - a run, a local breakfast, a few swims, and hours of exploring on foot. I found the local large cheap grocery - the Pali, and had sandwiches for lunch and dinner, of ham and avocado (which I think was imported from Mexico). The hostel has a few teenage cats, the grey and white one befriended me, and has now scored 2 ham sandwiches. She is a tree climber, stalking the local lizards. They have iguanas here; I met on at another grocery store hanging out With the potatoes. Casa Valeria is very dog and cat friendly, 2 dogs and 2 cats are residence, and makes the vibe even better.

There is a bar right next door, that had 2 for 1 drinks during happy hour (5-7), so last night I treated myself out. This was the quiet mellow bar. The loud American bar is down the street, and was apparently packed last night due to a football game. I think it was Texas. My bar was older locals having dinner, and mellow. I made friends with Andy from Sheffield UK, a solo traveler also staying at the same hostel. Very interesting guy, who is a professional roadie. He told me stories of his holiday here (had been here for 2 weeks), and stories of musicians. Notably, David Bowie is not that smart, other than in music. Apparently, the drug use of the past fried his old brain. But as to music, he still gots it. Andy's parents were both from Poland, and escaped, via Israel, during WWII, then onto England. Andy and I exchanged stories of Poznan and Krakow, as well as book recommendations.

I called it an early night and got to bed by 9 pm. I am nervous about meeting the host family today. Will they like me? Will I like them?

Second night in CR

2012-01-07T20:10:00.001-08:00

Full moon over playa samara. Got in 2 swims. Very laid back day. Had a beer with a roadie for Rodger Waters of Pink Floyd fame. Hint - wear Led Zeppelin tee-shirts, you will meet roadies.- Posted using BlogPress from my iPhone

Location:Samara CR

Running

2012-01-07T12:16:00.000-08:00

Today I got my first beach run in. Ran for 32 minutes. My best guess is I got about 2.5 miles in. I ran along playa Samara, back and forth, barefoot. I have a mid foot strike normally, so beach running does not affect any muscles not already developed, however, the soles of my feet are now a bit sore. hey, new callouses are good.

The beach

2012-01-07T06:37:00.001-08:00

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Location:Costa rica

Costa Rica

2012-01-07T04:52:00.001-08:00

The flight from the USA was totally uneventful. I am glad I packed 2 sandwiches - the flight only had expensive meals, dried out turkey sandwiches. The flight was also late getting in, for the typical reasons - another flight was cancelled so they can squeeze more into ours. Almost everyone on the flight was a gringo going on vacation, like myself. But the weird thing is, once we got to Liberia, they all disappeared into the night. It was only myself and the plane's crew that took the free shuttle to the Hilton. There were swarms of taxi drivers jumping all over the passengers exiting the very tiny airport (it is just a parking lot sized hanger,with just our plane there; we were theonlyreason the place was open). The Hilton was empty but for us.

The customs inspector ( who confiscated the rest of my lunch) taught me how to say Samara correctly. He said you say it like a song. I kept accenting it wrong, and this little singing trick is helpful.

After a decent night sleep, I got up early, to decide my next location. The hilton is a total rip off; one night costs the same as a week at a nice local hotel ( I said hotel, not dorm room hostel). The front desk informed me that the local bus to Nicoya (transfer point to Samara) is just across the street and costs about $2 USD. I was not in the mood to explore Liberia, so sleeping on a bus sounded great. Again, no gringos in sight. I am the only person hanging out at the bus stop at 9 am. I know 300 somegringos arrived last night... Where did they all go? Did the jungle eat them up? I guess they'll took midnight taxis to local beaches. None are on the bus to Nicoya.

The local bus was even cheaper that the hotel stated. It was a local, so many stops in villages, picking up moms and kids mostly. Local city bus - hard seats and heat,but the weather is actually mild, maybe 75f.

In Nicoya I had to use my very poor Spanish to find the bus depo, since this bus did not actually stop there,but circles back to Liberia. Again,in poor spanish, a local taxi driver informed me that I had 8 minutes to wait for the Samara bus. The depo toilets were spartan, but cheap and clean, and western style. (always bring your own TP; of coarse I had mine, I am no noob.)

The bus to Samara was plush - big soft seats. The road was very twisty and turny, up and down small mountains on good paved roads. Half the bus was local teens going to the beach on winter break. As soon as I got off the bus I made a bee line to the info center. That was super smart. Hadn't reserved a room. The Canadian guy who runs it called around town and secured me a great private room at a
beachfront hostel for 25$ a night. The place was perfect, a little casablanca not in any of the brochures, run by a local family. I got the only open room. A couple of exchange students had been following me and tried to get a room there, even cut in front of me. They were told the place was full. Then I stepped up and they knew my first name and walked me to my private room. And when I say on the beach, I mean, I am a few steps away. I can drink my free morning coffee watching the waves.

Houston

2012-01-05T14:17:00.001-08:00

At the sky box sports bar, seemingly affiliated with fox sports. 1.5 layover. Who the f$&@ is Tim tibow? he appears to be a big deal. (and excuse my iPad piss poor typing)

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Day 1 SFO to LIB

2012-01-05T07:38:00.001-08:00

It is 7:30 am in SFO, and I am having my second coffee of the morning. Already Spanish is the first language of the day; the ladies in line for coffee are discussing the calorie count of the creamer in espanol. I still use the half and half over the milk; it just tastes better and 40 calories is not going to kill me.

Miles to go...

2011-11-29T09:43:00.000-08:00

60 miles in the past 30 days, according to my crappy pedometer. I am using my iPhone and an app called Pedometer Pro. It is pretty good for .99. I know that the devise missed a few runs, either because of lack of GPS signal, or human (me) error. So I know for sure 60 in 30 so far, plus a few extra miles here and there.

Ran 2 races in Novmber. November 6 was the US Half Marathon. Went pretty well. Beautiful coarse over the Golden Gate Bridge. The second was November 27, a 10K in Golden Gate Park. The time on the Half was 1:44, slow, but there were issues, such as a bottleneck at the base of the bridge, where we came to a full stop and had to stand around to cross the bridge. The 1oK time was respectable - 1:04.

First day jitters

2011-11-14T10:42:00.000-08:00

Today is the first day of my marathon training schedule, and all my pre-run actions are now feeling ritulized. I eat a small amount of protein and coffee. I put on my knee brace on my gimpy left knee. I check the weather. I put on 2 sports bras and Toms of Maine deoderant (that does not have anti-persperant, so no gross white chunks.) I choose Nike capri tights, with a hidden key pocket on the butt. I choose my grey, broken-in New Balance Minimus trainers, that have held up for over 100 miles already and are kind of stinky. I double knot - I do not use any fancy tight tying techniques - those give me blisters. I never run in Nikes - they give me shin splints. I brush my teeth and hair. I put on Banana Boat sun screen. I pick out a shirt - today it is a red long sleeve tech shirt. I pack up my cell phone, that also acts as my pedometer, into a very tight and small fanny pack. I do not run with water - it is too bulky. I don't need it unless I am running over 10 miles. I think briefly about how many miles I plan on doing and pick out a tried and true trail. All my trails are near roads, in case of an emergency such as a leg cramp or twisted ankle or dog attack. Well, I will do a trail run once a week. I will contact Hugh for those, and give him an itenerary, in case of an emergency. I will not become the guy from 127 Hours.

Training for the marathon

2011-11-14T09:44:00.001-08:00

I signed up for my first marathon - the San Francisco July 29, 2012 full marathon. I have been training and running half marathons for the last 6 months; now I am modifying my running plan to achieve the full 26.2 next year. Today is day one of this modified plan. And today is an easy 3 mile day. (Plus kung fu class.) Since I just did a good half marathon 7 days ago, an easy day is fine.

Occupy

2011-11-02T21:32:00.001-07:00

A picture Speaks for itself...

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Location:Oakland

Occupy

2011-11-02T21:28:00.001-07:00

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Location:Oakland

Occupy Port of Oakland

2011-11-02T21:23:00.001-07:00

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Location:Oakland CA, USA

Occupy Oakland - Flashbangs USED on protesters OPD LIES

2011-10-26T16:14:00.000-07:00

Falling down a mountain

2011-10-18T11:26:00.001-07:00

My family loves to go hiking. My brother John has a tendency to get ahead of the group by magic. The group appears to be ahead of him, but then he shows up at the bottom of the mountain with first beer and covered in poison oak.

There is a term for my brother's hiking technique - glissade. This term "glissade" is the act of descending a steep slope by a controlled slide, either sitting or on foot. In other words, skipping the switchback and just sliding straight down the mountain through the poison oak!

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East Bay Hashers pt 1

2011-10-18T10:09:00.001-07:00

My sister suggested that I look into running with a local Hasher club. I had never heard of Hashing, even though I run and drink beer. She told me that Hashers are people who run from pub to pub. Sounds like a great idea, but that's all she told me. I had no idea I was walking into a historic, worldwide social club...

I started by a google search on hashing, and this lead me to a group in the East Bay called the East Bay Hash House Harriers. The web presence was minimal, a site that contained a running schedule and a few facts. To find out more I had to just dive right in a join a run.

On a sunny Sunday afternoon, I showed up at a trailhead 30 minutes before a posted run. I was obviously early, doing recon. A grey bearded guy in a 3 tiger tee-shirt, (in the spirit of the 3 wolves), dirty shorts, and a hiking hat was sitting at a picnic table. He came over to me and introduced himself as E=MCFucked and asked if I wanted a warm beer. Sure! So I asked him some easy questions about the running club. He was happy to fill me in on a chaotic history of hashing, while keeping his eye open to say hello to other runners who were gradually showing up.

In the next 30 minutes about 25 runners showed up, all ages, sexes, and running abilities. There were 2 runners who looked pretty elite, and more than a few that looked more like myself: middle-aged, a little overweight, and casual. All were seasoned Hashers; I was the only virgin hasher. Many had hashing tee-shirts from other clubs, including one from a Singapore 4th of July Anniversary hash run.

An unmarked delivery truck pulled up; this was the keg for the post hash run. Another hasher had a clipboard and took roll call of the runners and collected beer money. As a virgin, I did not have to chip in for the beer, just leave a name and e-mail address. And roll call was all handles - no one used their real names - all had acquired a hash name somewhere in their running history. (I never learned anyone's real name).

Mostly for my sake, before the run we got a prep talk. E=MCFucked had constructed 7 symbols on the ground with flour, and explained that he had laid out a trail a day ahead of time using these symbols. There may be false trails to trick us, so part of the run is to be observant of the symbols. People have gotten lost in the woods on these runs, I was told. My sister did not warn me that this was a scavenger hunt; this is going to be even better than I expected. (apparently E=MCFucked is what is called a "Hare", someone who lays out the trail, either live right before the run, or earlier. With this difficult trail run it had to be a day ahead of time, to make sure no one goes off a cliff.)

And then we started running... The beginning was easy, just follow the flour dots. I was a middle of the pack runner. I made small talk with other middle pack runners, but then we were going up a mountain, and I had to walk. It was getting hot, the California Central Valley sun bearing down on the dusty trail. At my running/walking pace a seasoned runner in a red baseball cap fell in next to me and started pointing out all the poison oak along the trail.

Then the run got weird... We had been running an obvious fire trail, but now the flour blobs pointed us to go off the path and take a deer run. Red Hat confirms that this is correct, and the pack ahead of us took the deer tracks. The track is not made for running, it is narrow and steep, and one could tumble down the wooded hill. But very obvious man-made flour blobs are dusted on tree roots, and down a steep gully. I run down the steep gully, my thigh all scratched up, and a bruise forming on my right leg.

At the base of the gully Red Hat informs me that I slid down a patch of poison oak. Red Hat is very chatty and points out all the other flora and fauna around and respectfully paces us into a two-man group. Not too slow, not too fast. He is from Conneticut originally and knows much on plants. He has been a Hasher since the 1980's, and has run with the East Bay Hashers for over 12 years.

to be continued...

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Location:Martinez, CA

Backyard beer brewing

2011-10-16T10:38:00.001-07:00

Have you ever spent a whole afternoon watching water boil? For Science?!? If you are testing out a home brewers rig, you have.

This is Carl. This are his 3 brew kettles, out for their first functioning test, using just hot water. It has taken Carl 2 years to create this particular rig, from buying the kettles, wielding the connections, constructing the plate heat exchanger, and rewiring, per California code, the whole garage. This rig is electrical, not your typical propane rig, which has its own set of issues, such as electricity in a very wet environment.

The first tank is a Hot Liquid Tank. It boils water. The hot water in this tank is used to regulate the water temperature in the second, middle tank. The yellow electrical cable connects to a large heating coil in the first tank. The water enters and returns to and from tank 1 to tank 2 via tubing connected to the copper coils poking out of the top. Carl is futsing with the pump.

The second tank is the Mash Tun.

Stay tuned for the exciting conclusion of Hot Water!!!

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Location:Albany, CA

Hydration

2011-10-14T10:00:00.001-07:00

I have gotten into the habit of having hot soup for breakfast. In China we had congee for breakfast everyday, and this makes a lot of sense. It does not upset the stomach, and it hydrates you after 8 hours of sleep. Soup is super healthy, and the warmth acts like tea or coffee - a pleasant way to start the day. It is a very pro-running breakfast.

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Location:Albany, California

Pay to Play

2011-10-13T17:32:00.001-07:00

So last night I went out for pizza and beer. It's the baseball playoffs, so it had to be done, Tigers v. Rangers. I totally carbed up on deep dish feta, spinach, onion and mushroom pizza. oh and garlic bread. So this morning I went out for a 10 mile run. I did my regular long route along the Berkeley waterfront, starting in Richmond CA, Then passing through Albany, Berkeley and doing a turnaround in Emeryville. On mile 7 I hit the wall, and walked a mile. I ran all of mile 8, and walk/run the last 2 miles. You got to pay to play, when your talking pizza.

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Location:Albany, California

Rain Dogs

2011-10-10T14:32:00.001-07:00

Fall has come to NorCal; the winter rains have arrived. Which means wet feet - rain dogs. And like any dog, they get stinky when wet.

Today I got in a nice, fast, 3 mile run in on a path along the Berkeley marina. I have always loved a good rain run. The smell of ozone, the mix of sweat with the rain, puddles, the recognition by other rain runners. It is a club you join if you are out on the trails.

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Location:Berkeley, California

Running

2011-09-24T07:57:00.001-07:00

This is my last week at work. My plan after this week is to prep for Costa Rica and Panama, I.e. Study my Spanish, and run. I am signed up for another half marathon! Fun times, fun times...

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Location:Oakland, California

Tres Cenotes

2011-05-16T05:22:00.000-07:00

As a result of the chixelub asteroid/metior, there is unique geographical feature in the Yucatan, including limestone caves and sinkholes known as cenotes. Another unique feature of the Yucatan is that there are no rivers. The area is dry and low lying desert so wTer is at a premium. These sinkholes act as natures cisterns, collecting

The Temple of Uxmal

2011-05-12T06:58:00.000-07:00

It sounds like a Rush song - the Temple of Uxmal, we are. Yesterday we took an organized tour booked through Jan, the owner of the hostel to the ruins of Uxmal. After another fantastic home cooked breakfast (omlets), the tour bus picked us up at our door. The drive Juan was bilingual and was very knowledgeable. Hugh and I were the only English speakers; the 7 others on the tour we're a family from Mexico city on the last day of their 5 day vacation.

Our tour rambled through a few local villages; one was being prepared for a festival and bull fight, old school, with a makeshift bull ring of material similar to bamboo; another had a great street fruit market and irate police (who only make about 80 pesos a day; I would be irate too).

The lay of the land is flat and hot with scrubby trees. The ground is made of red adobe, which the mayans used in hut making. It keeps the 100+ humidity out. But, as Juan said, it is now out of fashion.

Uxmal was great - Wikipedia can say it better than I can - go look it up.

We also hit a second ruin, that of Kabah. This was great since we were unaware that we we going to see 2. Kabah had no oth tourists but ours and another, soq. Got that ruin to ourselves. Smaller, but different and still being dug by the scientists. We could see science in action! science!

last, we had a ycatan lunch at a restaurant on the way home. Traditional lime and chicken soup, and chi en made with habenero paste - they did give us the mild version.

The family joining us consisted of Mom ( grandma), her son and daughter, their spouses, and 2 family friends. One of the doused was macho and ate a whole habenero straight - fun was had! The son tried to practice his English with me. He is a taxi driver in Mexico city, and the driving there is insane. His pregnant wife ws very cute, but she dripped soup on her white shirt- she never noticed and I did not have the heart to tell her.

We were going to go take a trip to the cents today, but my feet are swollen from the ruins, so instead we are going to tour Merida museums where there is air conditioning.

Tomorrow we will treck to pro RSI for the beach!

Merida, MX

2011-05-10T16:12:00.000-07:00

Jon made us a fantastic breakfast of corn pockets stuffed with potatoes and beans, onion, and hot salsa, and coffee this morning. Fidel still needs a haircut - his poodle stylings are overgrown since his Mom (Jon's wife of 5 years) is in Belgium visiting her 2 adult children by her first marriage. She is to return in two days: Fidel will be so happy!

Today we took it slow: we did one of those double decker tour buses that take a circle around the city, and you can jump off and on. We only exited fir one attraction - the archeology museum. We studied Mayan culture etc, but the real interest was the early 20 century photo display of the Mexican Revolution, displayed on the second floor. Zapatista and fotos.

Aferward we walked back to our barrio, but on the way we stopped at a cafe, where I ordered a chelada - a homemade chelada, not the weird vomit thing by budweiser. It was delicious! Limon salt and beer on ice, very nice on a 100 degree day walk.

We also bought a couple guayaberas - i love Hugh in a light blue shirt. Then it was all pools and beer and ham the rest of the day. Tomorrow is pyramids!

Merida Mexico

2011-05-09T14:47:00.000-07:00

It's Monday May 9, 2011, and we are taking a siesta at Casa Chalia, our perfect little hostel. Our host, Jon, is originally from Belfium. He fell in love with a Mexican national and now has been living here for the past 5 years, managing rental properties, with the help of a cute grey poodle named Fidel, named after Cuba's leader, after being left behind by Cuban visitors at one of the properties.

On our first day, after checking in and having a beer with Jon, we walked all over the Centro area, stopping for lunch and taking photos. In the centro square, a local man struck up a conversation about the best things to see in Merida. Great info, but... 2 blocks later we saw him again, and I am sure he had business in getting us into a friend's Panama hat shop. Another block later another guy struck up a conversation, to practice his English, and told us about the same great hat shop. And then two blocks later another guy ran up from behind me and got in front of us and pointed the way into the hat shop.

The store was not busy - it was siesta time in the off season - only a couple of guys washing the floor. We were guided up to the second floor, where there were walls of pottery and blankets. In a further room were shirs and hats. We went through the sales pitch, thismis a straw hat, thisnis a polyester hat, this, now thismis a real panama hat, you can roll it up and put it in your pocket , it wil not loose it's shape, yes girls can wear them too ( I have never seen a girl wear one).

We bought two hats - way over priced, but it was a great store.

New Trip - Mexico!

2011-04-17T07:23:00.000-07:00

It has been 2 months since my interview with the U.S. State Department and the subsequent rejection. It was, in fact, my second attempt at a State Dept. position. Some may say three times the charm, but right now I just feel the sting of rejection.

In the process of getting my bearings, I scheduled a trip for both Hugh and I to the Yucatan. We will be flying to Merida, Mexico in May. Why Merida? Well, Merida is the capital of the Yucatan, with a rich Spanish colonial history, and a jump point into visiting the Mayan temples. But the real reason is even better than temples: the Chicxulub crater!

So, you have never heard of the Chicxulub crater? I have, because of Hugh's space study hobbie. According to Wikipedia, the Chicxulub crater is an ancient impact crater. (What is an impact crater? I had the same question, and the answers are long and detailed. I interperate these answers into this: where the earth got hit by a gigantic space rock and left a dent.) And the Chicxulub crater is the impact zone of the dinosaur extinction causation. The diameter of the impact zone is over 6 miles (10K).

So, is there anything to actually see and visit in regards to this crater? So far, it appears that for non-geologists there are hundreds of sinkholes to explore. Sinkholes, also known as cenotes, are holes or caves in the ground with exposed rocky edges containing groundwater. This section of the Yucatan Penninsula has more cenotes than anywhere else on earth (not fact checked). Sinkholes are scary places where serface people like you and me could encounter morlocks, or other strange mutants. Or maybe a journey to the center of the earth? They are connected to intricate caves that can go on for miles and miles underground that can be scuba dived and explored. Or just breifly explored with a swim.

I anticipate that the biggest draw to the area are the Mayan temples, and as we all know from the movies that the Mayan calendar ends December 21, 2012, which is closing in around us RIGHT NOW!!!

Lastly, there are flamingos. (I suspect this will be my favorice part of the trip. You get to take a boat into the Gulf of Mexico and see flocks of hot pink birds.)

Testing the iPad

2011-03-24T20:58:00.001-07:00

This is a test. This is not just a test of the iPad, but a test of my patience and my editing on a non-keyboard keyboard. also, this gives me a chance to explain that when I was blogging in Eastern Europe I was using Cyrillic keyboards. Next time I travel it would be ideal to bring a computer of some sort. The iPad seems like it could be a great travel companion, if I can blog and book hostels on hostel.com with it. Since we are going to Mexico in 2 months I can bring it for a test drive, even though I plan on booking everything ahead of time. So far the keyboard seems ok.

So on to other topics of interest. Wearing socks - something I avoid doing. the husband always is telling me to put on socks because my feet are cold. But I don't like wearing socks, no sir. I am wearing them rig now, since it is cold outside , but I don't like it.

If you wear sock in the bathroom or kitchen you are risking having wet sock feet, which is icky and slimy. And wearing socks ruins them.the heels wear out veery fast. Also, I don't get blisters, and my feet don't sweat. So what is the point.

Bourbon v. Scotch

2009-11-06T11:53:00.000-08:00

What is the difference between Bourbon, Jack Daniel’s, Scotch, and Whiskey? This question came up last night at Ken’s birthday party. Of coarse, I had already had a few glasses of Courvoisier (cognac is a type of brandy, from the Cognac region of France, made from very specific grapes, and made in a very specific way, by French law… however this will have to be for another day), so my answer was not as clear as it should have been. So, for further clarification…..

Whiskey is a type of alcohol made of fermented grain mash. Grains may include barley, malted barley, corn, rye, and wheat. Usually, it is then aged in a cask. It retains some of its grain characteristics, differentiating it form a neutral spirit like vodka.

Bourbon is a type of corn whiskey. The name of the spirit originates for an area of the United States - Bourbon County. This county was originally part of the state of Virginia, but eventually became part of the new state of Kentucky (founded in 1786). The county seat is Paris, Kentucky, named out of respect for the French government for supporting the American Revolutionary War.

On May 4,1964, the United States Congress recognized Bourbon Whiskey as a "distinctive product of the United States." The Federal Standards of Identity for Distilled Spirits (27 C.F.R. 5.22) state that bourbon must meet certain requirements, which include that bourbon must be made with a grain mix of at least 51% corn and must be aged in charred oak barrels. In addition, it may not be distilled above 160 U.S. proof.

Technically, Bourbon can be made anywhere in the USA, however 95% of all the world’s bourbon is made in Kentucky.

Old Crow is great – it come in a plastic jug, is cheap, and tastes great. Doctor James C. Crow was a Scot who invented sour mash. We thank him.

So what is Jack Daniel’s, besides pure deliciousness? It is a Tennessee whiskey, made in Lynchburg, Tennessee. It is NOT bourbon as defined by Title 27 of the Code of Federal Regulations, Chapter 1, Part 5, Section 5.22. It is a sour mash filtered through sugar maple charcoal prior to aging in barrels. The ingredients are water, corn, malted barley, and rye. The sugar maple charcoal gives it that sweetness and the aging in oak barrels gives it color.

And Scotch? It is a whiskey. By international law, it must be distilled in Scotland. It is made with different grains and blends, distilled 2 or 3 times, aged in different casks, and sometimes treated with peat for a smoky flavor. There are many, many, many different kinds: blended, single malts, oak cask flavored with wines etc…etc…etc…

LIQUOR BLOG - POST #1

2009-10-29T20:24:00.000-07:00

Our Home LIQUOR INVENTORY

(Please note – none of this liquor was purchased for this blog entry; inventory was spontaneous.)

On October 28th 2009 I found the following liquor in my home:

Wine – Challis Lane 2007 California Merlot, two bottles of Vanel 2008 French Merlot, blanc de blancs Grandial French brut sparkling wine;

Beer – MacTarnahan’s Brewing Co. Lip Stinger farmhouse ale made with peppercorns;

Junmai Ginjo Premium Sake (14-15% alcohol by volume ABV) from Trader Joe’s market, Sho Chiku Bai classic Junmai sake from Berkeley, CA, a few blocks from my home and Koshu Plum rice wine with plum (12% ABV), made in Berkeley California;

Dekuyper Peppermint schnapps, Potter’s Peppermint schnapps, and Bols Butterscotch schnapps, Potter’s Triple Sec, Potter’s Crème de Cassis, Potter’s Blue Curacao;

Martini & Rossi bianco vermouth, extra dry vermouth, and Gallo sweet vermouth for making Manhatten’s, Quarles Harris Ruby Porto;

Hill’s Absinth from the Czech Republic 70% ABV, Swiss Kubler Absinthe (53% ABV) and Trenet Absinthe (with an “e”) (60% ABV) from France. As you may know, Absinthe with an “e” is made with wormwood, while absinth is made without;

Romana Sambuca, both Classico and Black, Irish Mist liqueur, Drambuie, Agwa coca herbal, Austria’s Stroh jagertee liqueur, which Hugh loves to serve to guests blended with black hot tea, Becherovka, a Czech liquor that is also very popular in Slovakia (but I find tastes like eating pine tree sap);

St. Elmo Rum;

Scotch and whiskey– two mini bottles of Tobermory 10 year old, very petey, Laphroaig 10 year old, Glenlivet 12 year old, Glenfiddich 12 year old, Finlaggan Islay single malt, J&B blended scotch, 2 bottles of Jack Daniels, Maker’s Mark, Black Horse Schwabischer Whiskey, Clontarf Irish whiskey, and last but not least my favorite scotch single islay malt 18 year old Bunnahabhain. Currently we are out of Glen morangie – normally we always have a bottle on hand, however it disappears quickly.

Hungarian Slivovitz 3 year old, homemade slivovica form Slovakia bootlegged into the USA a few years ago, homemade slivovica form Slovakia brought to the USA this year, and Maraska Slivovica from Croatia and Maraska Slivovica from Serbia;

Bunratty Potcheen from Ireland. The label on this bottle claims that this liqueur is made in Ireland legally for export only, and is illegal to sell or drink in Ireland. Now this has to be a ploy…. for American sales – like it is too gross to sell in Ireland; they only get the good stuff… this stuff is only good mixed with lemonade;

Hennessy VS, E&J brandy, Domino de Villasanta Cream Sherry (sherry is Hugh’s mom’s favorite go-to drink);

Gross booze – Campari and Villa Massa Limoncello. I should love both of these; I am a huge fan of bitters and lemons. Why I don’t like these two liqueurs is beyond me.

You will note an absence of vodka and gin. Why? One – vodka is my favorite spirit so I drank it all. I usually keep a jug of Stoli in the house. Next payday I will buy a new jug. Stoli is very flexible; it is great out of the freezer straight up, and it also works well in a dirty martini with extra olives. As to gin…. I am not the biggest fan. Please send me your favorite gin and maybe I will be converted to gin.

Next up... drinking accessories....

New Blog Theme

2009-10-26T06:46:00.000-07:00

So now back from Europe.... I want to continue blogging; I think that the theme may have to change form travel to something else. The 2 things I know about are kung fu and alcohol. They seem a bit contradictory at first, but everything in moderation....

Searched at the border

2009-10-22T03:19:00.000-07:00

So I have been to 9 countries in 3 months, and the only country that told me that i had to be searched in a private room and swabbed all the items in my carry-on was the USA, the country i am a citizen, the country of my birth. got my boobs and crotch searched cause i was chosen at random...

Last day on road

2009-10-20T00:52:00.000-07:00

yesterday we flew from odesa to prague, then to munich. today i hang in munich and fly out to toronto then SFO tomorrow. 5 airports in 2 days - john still has me beat when he flew to malia's wedding...

going home to hugh and new cat family!!!

Last day in Odesa

2009-10-18T03:19:00.000-07:00

The japanese guy turned up safely. he just spent the nite int he village cause the busses stopped running. not too exciting after all.

today we are going to the opera. i forgot which one - i know nothing about opera. this may be my first real opera, if you dont count andrew loyde webber plays. I have seen cats! I think this is going to be a real and proper opera. (I will be seeing Devo in 2 weeks...)

we leave tomorrow on Czech Air to Munich - i can't wait - i am soooo hugh home sick it hurts.

Life in the Hostel

2009-10-17T06:49:00.000-07:00

So since I am sick all I do is hang out in the hostel. We have a small adventure going on here.... The hostel is a very nice flat. Pete and I are in teh private bedroom. The hostess is very nice but a bitye skiddish.

She bakes us an apple cake yesterday, and also made me a home remedy for my flu, a mixture of lemon juice, honey and glycerin drops. It does not seem to be doing anything, but it tastes good.

The adventure is with the other room mates. We have 2 other people in the hostel, a russian tourist and a japanese guy. the japanese guy does not speak russian and does not appear to have friends in the city. he left yesterday afternoon to go to some village 180 km north of Odessa. he tolds the hostess that he was leaving for kiev in the morning,a nd would be back. well. he never returned. his bags are still in the hostel. we have not yet called the police, however the hostess called the owner of the hostel - but he lives in kyiv.... the guy is an adult.... we are not sure what we need to do. call the japanese embassy? the police? I do not want to be a witness to the disapperance of a japanese national in this hostel.... weird.....

Still sick

2009-10-17T06:48:00.000-07:00

I have spent the past 2 days in bed.... have bronchiatas and I am coughing up a lung...

Odesa animals

2009-10-15T05:10:00.001-07:00

There are cats all over the streets of Odesa!!!

Odesa Ukraine

2009-10-15T05:03:00.000-07:00

We took the night train from Kyiv to Odesa two days ago - I am loosing track of the days and nights.... We got a first class sleeper - private and comfortable. just for 2. But I was too sick to really enjoy the luxury. I just passed out for 10 hours.

When we got into Odesa, Yan, a friend of Hugh's from Also was there to pick us up and take us to our hostel. Our hostel is right near downtown, walking distance from everything. He then ahs to go to work - I spend the day in bed sick.

At 8pm we went to a German Beerhouse for dinner with the Aldon crew - we had a great time, lots of meats, beer and vodka. the we toured the city on foot, sing the famous Potomkin steps, the moving bridge, Pushkins stature, the optical illusion wall.

Today I found the internet cafe and book tix for a flight to Munich on the 19th, air Czech. this hostel does not have a computer - only wifi....

Last day Kyiv

2009-10-13T04:58:00.000-07:00

On the last day in Kyiv I was horribly sick. however Nastia made delicious hot breakfast again - omlet and tortilla. Niegel and I made it over to the Chemist and after loading up on vodka and flu medicine I made it out for a 2 hour walk in the rain and cold. I made it to the Golden Gate, to St Sofia cathedral, and another cathedral - blue, and lastly, to by Nastia a gift for all she has done for us.

Tonight she is making another fabulous home made Ukrainian meal, then we head out on the 11 pm train to Odesa!

Really Central Kyiv

2009-10-13T04:56:00.001-07:00

Thank you Nastia for the best Hostel ever. You are a great cook, and are the best hostess I have ever met. I do not know how you have the enery.

Roasting Chestnuts

2009-10-12T11:03:00.000-07:00

So today I was slow and sick - have a bad headcold. i did buy a bag of raw chestnuts on the street from an old Ukrainian lady for 10 hv. I took them back to the hostel, got out a fry pan and roasted them - they turned out pretty good! There was one grub/maggot mixed in the bunch, but we did not eat him - Bev rescued him and tossed him out the window. This is what you do when your sick....

Killer Kyiv

2009-10-11T06:12:00.001-07:00

Things that may kill you in Kyiv:

walking because the cars go very fast and reckless
old ladies who sell tickets
packs of wild dogs (not really - they are friendly-ish)
the wet cold
high heels and cobbelstones
too much great food and vodka
your brother's snoring
footballers (not really - they are quite nice guys)

i am getting quite fat.... i put on a bit of weight here....

Walk around Kyiv

2009-10-11T06:06:00.001-07:00

Today was a crappy cold rainy day in kyiv. So I took a long walk. The path i took is the following:

Past the Shevchenka Opera house, right at mykhayla kotsyubinskoho street, past the botanical gardens, down komintternu to the train station, got yelled at by mean old ticket ladies when trying to purchase tickets to Odesa, back down the main street to the botanical garden, in the garden, down Tolstoha to the Monument of Taras Shevchenko, past the Russian Museum, yelled at by another men lady selling me a fanta, and back to the hostel.

It must have been at least a 4k walk. again our hostess is excited to cook an authentic ukrainian dinner for us so i needed to burn off the calories!

Walking Kyiv

2009-10-11T01:15:00.000-07:00

So after we settled into our hostel, Bev, myself, Neigel, and my brother took the metro to the center of kyiv. Neigel left us at the Chernobyl museum. Bev had booked a tour of the actual chernobyl for today. (I wish I had booked the tour, however i was not organized enough). Afterward, we walked to Kontraktova Square, where we met an odd Slovak guy named Andre, who was a history nerd. He latched onto our little posse and started to give us a narrated history tour of the area (for free). We walked the whole of Volodymyrska Street, from bottom to top and then back down. He lectured us on how this street was the veins of kyiv, the aristocrats on the top of the hill and the market square on the bottom.

halfway up the street is the Bulgakoc Museum. Both Bev and I are fans of Bolgakov - I loved The Master and Margarita (bought a new copy in Prague and shipped it back 2 weeks ago in fact). so she and i attempted to tour the home/museum. the price was psoted 20 hv, however the museum woman was a bitch and tried to charge us 75 hv for the tour. we said - no - and snuck around th back and gave ourselves our own tour.

we climed a hill behind Bolgakov's home to see the view of the 3 hills of the witches. stories say that witches gathered on these hills to celebrate their craft and influenced the writings of Bolgakov.

lastly we finished climbing the street and toured St andrew's church at the very top, a beautiful baroque church done in golds tourquois and reds.

we went back to the center of town, Independance Square, where in 2004 the Orange Revolution took place, insuring that Ukraine was no longer under the influence of the Russian government. we again at at the Ukrainian cafeteria for more borsht and beer. we finished the evening with a vodka walk around midnight, to the sounds of fireworks.

Kyiv, Ukraine - the Hostel

2009-10-10T13:29:00.000-07:00

today was our first day in kiev - kyiv - i love love love kiev!!!

we took the night train from lvov. we splurged for first class. we shared a 4 person car with a ukranian grandmother and her granddaughter. (who my brother noted is very cute). i slept very well - aparently i snore and kept my brother awake. the 2 of them were traveling from lvov to kiev to attend the birthday party of an aunt, who was turning 36. the grandmother showed me pictures of her brother who once lived in Minnisota - he has since died - she had pictures of the funeral to share. she was very happy to meet an american on the train. it gave her moments to share with oterhs the love she had for her brother.

we got to kiev at around 7:30 am - we found a taxi driver - i handed him a note of where our hostel was. he took us there right away. however the address was just a sketchy alleyway that was unmarked. we were getting used to this - hostels in many ukranian cities are unmarked except by maybe a little bit of english on the side on a paper print-out at best. he was getting pissed that this crazy american girl was wondering around an alley without paying him first. so i paid him and he left us in the alley. however after about a half hour 2 girls emerged from a door to smoke. we snuck in and found the hostel on the second floor. we were buzzed into an apartment full of birtish footballers who were visitng for the english/ukraine world cup qualifyer match (set for today in a city 8 hours form kiev). (oh, england lost, however they have already qualified for the 2010 world cup in south africa).

the hostel is HI Hostel Really Central. The hostel is "based in a great Stalin-architecture flat with 4 meter high celings, offering dorm beds and 2 private rooms and two large toilets". The hostess Nastia, is a wonderful cook, who makes omlets every morning, and cooks ukrainian dinner every tuesday, thursday and saturday. (and, yes, boys, she is young and cute, born in Minsk Belarus.)

We made friends in Lvov, and 2 of them, Neigel and Bev, met us hear the first night. Neigel had a bit of bad luck - he was pickpocketed shortly after arrival on the Metro, and then when he got to the flat, he got a bloody nose from his illness.

Another flatmate is a woman form Poland who now lives in oslo, who has given me much in polsih history and contacts to look up family members.

L'wow, day 2

2009-10-09T06:42:00.000-07:00

In the first day in L'wow, Pete and I only toured the Old Town and walked the Castle Hill Park. We hung out with other travelers in the hostel, and I made us a pasta dinner.

On day 2 I found that I had indeed caught pete's head cold. I took a morning walk, did our banking, paid for our nights at the hostel, found our path to the railroad station, and bought night tickets on the sleeper train to Kyiv. I splurged for first class since I am sick. Also it appears that a few of our new hostel friends will be on the same train. We all decided to book beds at the same hostel, since the hostel has free ukrainian dinners, and it appears to be pretty nice and cheap. (also this means that our roommates will be cool)

Sick people don't do much, but we did go out to eat. there are a chain of Ukrainian cafeterias which have delicious ukrainian food super cheap. These cafeterias had foods that my grandmother used to make, including golabki and pierogis. We ate 10 different dishes, including pork on the bone, red beetroot borsht, chicken Kyiv, and salads.

L'viv, Ukraine

2009-10-07T15:13:00.000-07:00

Today we took the train from krakow to L'viv Ukraine. I was very hung over. The night before we, at the hostel, watched the Big Lebowski and drank 2 bottles of vodka. not the smartest move....

The train was very basic, however we got our own private sleeping compartment, so I was very comfortable. Border crossing went smoothly, but did take 2 hours since they have to change the wheels of the cars to accomodate a different type of rail tracks.

WE got into L'viv at midnight, so we found a "trustworthy" taxi driver, wo took us to our hostel - which was closed for the season... He recommended the Kosmonaut Hotel, which was also in our guidebook,a nd they were open and had a room. Perfect! The driver knew spanish so we communicated in spanish. (because we don't know ukrainian or russian and he did not know english) he did greatly overcharge us, but we were still happy since we were same with a bed.

The Kosmonaut is a hostel, not a hotel, despite the name. it is soviet rustic, however kitches it up and it is homey. WE are also just blocks form the center of town - WOOT!!!

Auschwitz & Birkenau

2009-10-06T00:09:00.001-07:00

"Those who cannot learn from history are doomed to repeat it."

-George Santayana

"The Holocaust is a central event in many people's lives, but it also has become a metaphor for our century. There cannot be an end to speaking and writing about it. Besides, in Israel, everyone carries a biography deep inside him."

- Aharon Appelfeld

"We shall solve this problem, and afterwards Warsaw as the Capital and the pool of intelligentsia of that nation will be destroyed."

-Heinrich Himmler- August 1944

Polish Mad Dog

2009-10-05T03:40:00.000-07:00

So last night was vodka tasting night at the hostel. the first was a mixed drink called a Mad Dog. In a shot glass you first fill it halfway with vodka. then you carefully float raspberry liquor into the glass. then you place one shot of tabassco in the center of the drink. if you look at the glass you will see the Polish national flag, which is a red stripe on the bottom and a white stripe on the top, and the Polish eagle made by the drop of tabassco. I thought this was very cool - i will be doing this at home - hugh - get me some vodka, raspberry liquor and clear shot glasses!!!!

krakow day 2

2009-10-05T03:31:00.001-07:00

So we decied to go to Auschwitz today - the weather is good, and Pete is feeling better. We leave in an hour. Which gave me time to go explore the city a bit.... and I bought SHOES!!! Shooes is Europe are cheaper and better than USA shoes, especially since I am a size 40 1/2. It is very hard to find proper fitting shoes in teh USA for us girls with larger feet - the better to kick you with my dear. I got a cute pair of flat brown booties and a cute pair of heeled brown booties - both for perfect winter wear. I did plan for this - the only shoes I currently ahve with me are a pair of Keen sandals, and teh weather is becoming wintery here - so i actually needed the boots...

Krakow day one

2009-10-04T11:40:00.000-07:00

Poor pete is sick. So I booked a second class train tix to Krakow form Warsaw so we could get him to bed and not have to jump from plateform to plateform .. he could just relax in the train. Fast and direct. I had reserved beds at the local hostel the night before, on the recommendation of the staff at the Oki Doki. We are staying at mama's hostel, and it is cute and right in the heart of old Town. The place is very cozy and friendly, relaxed and clean. And there is free vodka tasting tonighjt - bonus! No weirdo killers and no electrical wires hanging form the walls.

Pete took a nap and I went out and enjoyed the town. It is a very university town, also filled with 20 something clergy - tons of Catholic monks and nuns in full gear in their 20's wearing sandals and rocking out to guitarts on the streets. Today it appeared to be a music festival for young clergy members. It made the whole town seem like a dreamy safe nook away form the real world. there were more catholic clergy partying in the streets than there is in the whole protestant USA.

tomorrow we will most likely just hang in the town, then take a tour of Auschwits/Birkenau the next day.

Walking Warsaw

2009-10-03T08:28:00.000-07:00

Today we walked Warsaw. we first had breakfast with 3 Canadians. One was a teacher who was returning to north american after years of teaching in china, and touring russia; the other 2 were a married couple who were on a three week holiday. we then walked to the warsaw ghetto - where the famous uprising took place in 1944.

we started off on Pope John Paul II street, and headed to the Pawiak prison 1835 - 1944. This prison was originally built for common criminals in 1830's, however it was taken over by the gestapo in the 1930's, and became infamous. 10% of Warsaw's population was imprisoned here. noted for americans, they used interrogation devises such as waterboarding and dogs. what we do not learn from history we are doomed to repeat. some of the waterboards were preserved, such as rubber tubing... asso to be noted was an elm tree, now encompased with bronze. in 1944 the nazi's bombed warsaw and the elm survived and is now a monument to those who died in the prison.

we then walked the warsaw ghetto. those who have seen roman polanski's film "the pianist" will be familiar with the recreation of these streets. of coarse the buildings were all razed by bombs, so now the ghetto is marked by stone tablets. we passed many hebrew tour groups on the path. a new historical museum is in the process of being built in this area.

we ended the day walking tthe old town, were we stopped for lunch on teh street Madam Curie was born. I are pig knuckle and wodka, pete had duck mmmmmmm.

we watched break dancers in the main square, and passed the dedication to copurnacus. we finished the day going to an old car show, with citrions from the 1930- present.

tomorrow we leave for krakow!!!

mmmm Food

2009-10-02T22:55:00.000-07:00

Last night, after we settled into the clean, no Taxi Driver Robert Dinero guys, we went out for some real Polish food. We went to a cute place called Zapiecek, which specialized in perogies. We got a plate of meat perogies, a plate of cabbage and mushroom ones, fried chicken livers with apples and onions, beetroot soup, and I had a Detroit breakfast = a shot of Jim beam and a beer. The waitresses were wearing cute red checkered maid outfits with blue corsets - i think it was supposed to look country old timey. the reseraunt was all woodwork, like a cabin (but set in the middle of a big city...). the dinner helped shack off the memory of the scary Hostel Tamka that we ecaped.

Scary Hostel in Warsaw....

2009-10-02T10:38:00.000-07:00

So today is our first day in Warsaw. It ended well, but started kind of rocky. We got to the central train station after an easy ride from Poznan. our car was full, but we were entertained by a father and his 2 year old daughter, who was super cute and talkative, and watched Kung Ku Panda in Polski.

We got to the central train station and called and made a reservation at a hostel that we got a nice brochure on, that was not in the guide book. we got there and the outdoors should have warned us.... you had a gated window and spray painted outside. we got buzzed in and the reception looked fine, nice 20 year old girl at the front desk. she had told us on the phone that she was very booked but could squeeze us in. she squeezed us into the basement. we got to our 10 bed dorm, and it smelled of piss. so we opened the window to air it out - the window opened up to the dumpsers...

we started to unpack and pete noticed there was shit on his sheets. so i went up to go=et us a different room. so we got out of the basement and to the second floor. the last room of the second floor, room 12, was ours. in there was a 40 year old creepy guy in an army jacket with a grease pony tail. i plugged my phone into the jack - the jack was hanging off the wall in wires. there were no curtains. the girl at the front desk explained that the prior resident ripped the curtains off the window in anger because they did not like the accomodations.

so again we started to unpack. at that pont the creepy guy engaged us in conversation. i atempted to say we spoke english, but did so in slovak. he then proceeded to rip me a new one since i apparently should have not attempted a foreign language and should have spoken only english. at this point i told pete that we needed to discuss food in the hallway....

so food - pete was to guard our belonging from the creepy guy while i go score a new bed for the night. so i went out into the street and tried to score beds at the hostel we passed on the way called the Hostel Lemon. it was on teh 4th floor of a sushi resteraunt. i wiated and waited, but no one answered the reception. so i then found anoterh one a block away that was in our guide book called the Oki Doky. the price was 3x that of the scary hostel, but well worth it. free internet, a bar with happy hour lots of students, loud happy brit pop, and roommates from canada, who have even scarier stories than ours - he was in a hostel in krakow where the scary guy was drinking a 5th of vodka and pulled out a knife.

right now they are blasting Queen at this hostel - another one bites the dust. this is a good hostel!!!

De-Evalution

2009-10-01T22:57:00.000-07:00

DEVO

So the boys were in a Prague bar. DEVO came on and the bar cleared out in seconds.... the boys kept bitching about how much they hate DEVO, but continued drinking and listening.... I have tix to see DEVO in SFO when I get back form this trip - I can't wait!!! Love DEVO!!!!

Poznan thoughts...

2009-10-01T09:51:00.000-07:00

so Peter is listening to Polish hip -hop = Wyll, album Normalna ( i think....)(hard to tell.....) We visiteed the gas company to find our father's birht records - we of coarse were in the wrong department.... but it was an adventure. We saw a very beautiful cathedral,a nd another one which was on cathedral island which was form the 9th century, and was the founding city of Poland. Also it was visted by pope JP2 in 1983.... we ate street keilbasa and peirogi... we went to a farmers market... we went to a mcDonalds with leather chairs... we drank micro-brew....

Poznan, Poland

2009-09-30T22:58:00.000-07:00

Yesterday me and Peter took the 9 hour train from Prague to Poznan, Poland. We were lucky and got a Hogwarts style cabin to ourselves for most of the trip, so we could sprawl out and sleep. At the Polish/Czech border we were passport controlled 2x, but the police were very nice, and young too. The conductor helped ous out with our transfer in Worclaw. A german/polish professor also trapped us for an hour lecturing us on what we should see in Worclaw - even though we were not planning to stay there. It is an up and comming college town and vacation spot that was not destroyed by the wars. We just don't have time.

So here we are in Poznan. Today i plan on goping to city hall and look up our family birth records. As you all know our father was born here. i want to see who else is from here. And I am ballsy enought to call people out of the blue for dinner if it is possible.

generally everyone here in Poland is very helpful and nice. we have had no difficulties. however since this is a college town, we cannot find traditional polish food - mostly spanish and italian. students like pasta and tapas.... we will have to wait for warsaw for perogies.

Janosik

2009-09-29T10:00:00.000-07:00

So today I went to go see the new film Janosik. I have a mixed review of this film....

First, I did enjoy most of the film. I am a language student, so, as such, this film is easy for an English native speaker to follow the plot and its characters. That may tell you that it lacks a little in the character development department, or not... I don't know.... The main character/hero Janosik comes off as a more gonady/forced-hetero Orlando Bloom, who is Slovakia's Robin Hood. Except here he robs from the rich to get laid by the local county gals. A few of their fathers may get some of the wealth too, but that is an after thought....

Second, this is a chick flick. Even though all the movie posters show a bloody hook (which kind of spoils the ending) this is NOT a bloody fighting swash-buckling film. No. This film is for the Ladies. There is kissing with honey during a wedding fully clothed, that is sensuous wedded bliss by Janosik's best ginger-headed friend and his ginger-headed bride. (of coarse Janosik is cursed by a dark eyed gypsy chick who is very hot...)

Lastly, there is NOT ENOUGH FIGHTING AND ROBBING!!!!! Too much kissing. The first sword fight is one hour into the film and is half assed with an Austria fop. of coarse Janosik kicks his ass in a humiliating way.

Bottom line.... the film is very pretty, and the costumes are super cool. We like Slovak woodcutters with mini axes in tight cream woolen pants and black hats. Not just like... LOVE !!! However, you need more than sexy kisses to keep that going. Give us either violence with Yuen Woo-Ping kung fu/sword fights, depth of character a la Scorsese, or art direction that is mind-blowing. (the art direction was dobre, however I wanted one more element)

I will watch this again on DVD, mostly to study language. And wish for more blood.

Kutna Hora

2009-09-28T10:48:00.000-07:00

Today we took a train to the village of Kutna Hora, about 1 hour from Prague. This village as an ossuary - a Catholic chapel made out of the sculls and bones of over 40,000 people who died form the Black Plague. Once I am able I will download and post the photos - think of the cambodian killing fields made into religious artwork. It was insane - literally. I have never seen anything that grotesque in my life.
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Afterward we spent a wonderful day walking around this village. There are many beeautiful cathedrals, shops and cobblestone paths. Today was also a state holiday that of Saint Wenceslas. The weather was warm and sunny, perfect for walking.

Yesterday we took it easy. WE slept in and then went to Ian's school to see a photo exibition. The photos were all world events form 2008, from award winning photographers. The subjects included Obama's election, the earthquate in China, the Olimpics, and the Mumbai attacks.

Tonight I am taking it easy alone while everyone else is going to a regga concert. I am just too tired.

We leave for Poland in 2 days - on Wednesday morning. Pete and Ihave a 9 hour trian to Poznan. Joe is staying with the 2 CAnadia gals and going to Berlin.

Pope Benedict spotted

2009-09-26T14:08:00.000-07:00

So today is our second day in Prague. We took the night train from Munich, Germany, after about 4 hours at Octoberfest. We did not party at Octoberfest proper - no costumes, no ticket to a big beer hall. We did it on the cheap; we bought beer on the street and ate street meat and walked around the carnival for 4 hours. It was pretty awesome, but I need to come back and do it right. We just ran out of time and money.

So after hitting Octoberfest we did the night train to Prague. It was a Hogwarts style train - cute compartment that we could lock ourselves into and sleep. Once we hit the czech rep it felt more like home. i do not know why...

we got to the main train station and called Joe's high schoot friend Ian to come get us. he has been living in Prague for the past 5 years. He is a poliSci guy, who took the LSAT 2x and decided not to go to law school. currently he is walking with crutches because he broke his heel jumping of of a step while intoxicated. guess what - he and i are now goot friends!!! drinking and law = good slluurry drunk talk.

at the train station i went to the info booth to find out about local stuff and etc. right behind me were 2 cute canadian gals. one had a tattoo of a lotus on her foot, which i commented on since Joe has the same tattoo. 2 new drinking buddies!!! tonight the 6 of us hit the town, discussing canada, booze, travel, law, beer, wine, the Pope, and tomorrows plans. the 6 of us plan on hitting a cathedral made out of human sculls. One of the canadiana is also a martial artis 8 years of karate. like minds drink wines.

the boys spend the day with the girls while i stalked and photographed the Pope. Ina has a broken leg so he had to spend the day at hoem - which does suck. I'll post the Pope photos when i get back to the USA - i do not know how to transfer them...

Sybian Table Tennis

2009-09-24T00:43:00.001-07:00

Last night we went and watched Ruth play her first league game of the season in her table tennis club. Ruth used to be professional. Think Forrest Gump or the chinese. Lots of head games as to how to serve the ball, and to return. Lots of back spin and top spin. Lots of kung fu horse stance and footwork.

I videoed her first match of the evening. It was against this guy who was a bit of an ass because he had to go against a girl. This is a mens league and Ruth the only female. And Ruth kicked his ass in a close finish. Then Ruth got her game on and won every match, the last one a clean sweep.

Her whole team did well that evening. Visitors 8, Home 3.

Ukraine in Germany

2009-09-23T08:22:00.000-07:00

So today I spend the day alone shopping at the outlet malls in the nearby village of Metzingen. It is where Jennifer likes to buy leather handbags. However I was not as lucky. I saw many leather handbags I liked, but they were all for 200 EU or more, so i did not buy any. Instead I bought a little makeup .... yes.... i know... i know.... buy hey, it is small and alot less than 200 EU.

Ruth took me to the train station on the back of her scotter = I WANT A SCOOTER!!!!! OMG it was so fun to zip around the village on the scooter. You can buy them in Berkeley for $700, all electric. It would be perfect for going to kung fu and the grocery store, which is what i do most of the time anyway.

i had to find my way home. the train was a piece of cake, however i think i bought a senior fare.... the bus was a little mmore difficult - the sign Ruth told me to follow was not posted on the regular board, but when the correct bus pulled up it was obvious. And the bus driver and I communitced well. But in Ukrainian. He knew no english and I knew no german. we figured our common language was a hobbled together mix of slovak and Ukrainian with a little russian mixed in. He taught me the proper way to say Lviv and Ukraine - it is not how you would think in the USA. But of coarse I cant remember it now....

the bus driver had been in germany for 10 years and his main family is now here. he has 3 kids. he wanted to know why i did not have a german/english language book. i told him because this was not where i was mainly to travel. this was all hobbled together in Ukraine/slovak. I think I did ok!!! and he dropped me off 1 block for Ruth's house! Woot!!!

Oh yeah...

2009-09-22T23:37:00.000-07:00

we also hit the castle Luximbourg spelling off... it was very different fromt he other castles we have hit. much smaller and more tubular and pointy, on top of a very steep cliff. georgous.

and we are living with Lux the cat, a very friendly loving boy with a bad allergy and cough. he loves us and sleeps with one of us every night.

More Deuchland

2009-09-22T23:25:00.000-07:00

We are still partying in Germany... the place is too cool to leave - Ruth and her family are too cool to leave. And we still have not even made it to Octoberfest in Munich yet. We have continued partying in Tuebingen.

2 Days ago we toured the countryside. We hit the old Bear caves, which were larger than the ones I have seen in Lassen CA. WE attemped to go bobsledding at 2 different places, but one was closed on Mondays and the other was waiting for the safety inspector. Lastly we had dinner at a place tucked away in a hamlet, called the Rose. WE treated ourselves to the full treatment, and got the best stuff on the menu and bottles of wine and shots of local whiskey aged in oak barrels that had also been used to ferment pears. Mmmmmmm.

Yesterday we hit the Mercedes Museum. That was one of the best museums I had ever been to, and we could not do the whole thing in one day. So much history, not just about cars, but how cars have shaped the 20th century. being that 3 of us are from detroit, this museum was especially interesting. Lastly, Ruths parents took us out for an italian dinner - again perfect homemade pasta and grappa!

On my downtime, on trains etc, i made Ruth a rastafarian beret. it turned out very well - professional quality. probably one of the best hats i can make. looks store bought.

today ruth and the boys are going out hiking while i hit the hugo boss store adn other leather goods stores. then i plan on attending ruths league tabel tennis match. this is the pro stuff - ruth used to be a professional table tennis player. think chinese style, or forrest gump.

oh yea = i have another soccer jersey for the collection - Stuttgurd, cacau number 18 - he is a hotty defensive lineman.

Tuebingen, Germany

2009-09-20T04:11:00.000-07:00

Tuebingen, Germany-

Currently we are living at Ruth's aunt's house. Her aunt is on vacation for 3 weeks in Corsica, France. The house is very sweet - 4 bedrooms, a courtyard, big dining room table.

In Salzburg, I scratched the rental car, 4 hours before the car was due back at Avis. I was doing sooo well - no damage, no tickets, despite 3 police stops, in illegal eastern european counties. But in a parking lot in Salzburg I scratched the door in a parking lot. Avis noticed it right away. They want to charge me 800 US dollars for the damage. i did not fight them - I called american express and is disputing the charge that way on the back end. 800 is excessive. 200 may be reasonable. so i have a legal fight going on. i feel like an idiot for not getting extra insurance. also ruth has me scared fro not buying travel insurance. as an american i am so used to not haveing coverage. the boys have no health insurance in the Us, why would you think of buying it oversees???

From Salzburg we drove to Munich, where we returned the scratched car. Ruth called, and for once my phone worked. WE hopped on the train to Stuttgart. The trained in Germany do actually run like clockwork - we had to run to make our train and connections.

Ruth picked us up and we made the introductions. We had a few beers and walked with her mother and dogs, chilling. We settled down in Ruth's aunts house - it felt great, just like home.

The next day we went to the Tuebingen Market - a huge event that attracts over 100,000 people. me and Pete bought rings, kick ass chuncky brass and stainless steel rings. I also bought yarn, no surprise. We hung with Ruth and her parents, who are super cool. I cooked everyone a chicken and veggie dinner, and we drank many bottles of wine.

Today we just walked around the city. there was a city fun run going on, but we missed the actual run. we toured the city and drank lots of beer.

tomorrow, who knows..... bobsledding and caves and maybe a castle. we love tuebingen.

salzburg day 2

2009-09-17T06:43:00.000-07:00

today was great. we checked in to a very nice hostel called the JUFA jugend and familiengastehauser. clean, inernet access, seperate dorms for girls and boys on request, lockers, bookings for tours etc... 20 EU a night, right in old Salzburg.

we met an american girl named alex in the lobbie from LA who loves films. she and my brothers booked a Sound of Music tour. i would have gone except i needed time alone, and i wanted to take a boat tour of the river - no surprise to all who know me and my love of boats and water.

the river boat tour was fun - they sell beer on the boat and give you a history tour. of coarse Salzburg is named for salt - the famous salt mines are very nearby. the river has very strong killer currents and the boat was specifically maide for this river and is unique.

i regret we could not take a tour of the kehlsteinhaus - eagle's nest - where hitler had his famous mountain retreat. oh well next trip. the weather is not good for it - rain and fog. also it costs 50 EU. too much for this budget.

Salzberg

2009-09-16T22:12:00.000-07:00

We are spending 2 nights in Salzberg, since 1) if we get to Munich a day early we will not have a place to stay and 2) it is very beautiful. The first night we splurged and stayed at a 4 star hotel - the Hotel Wolf. It still was not too expensive - 110 EU for a double. I needed some clean from the futbal situation. today we find the hostel in town. they are not easy to find hear. this is an old person's town - my kind of town!!! early to bed, quiet and peaceful, beautiful, no one under the age of 45, a wonderful yarn store - which I will be hitting this morning. opens at 9am!!! love old people towns. I will be coming back here for sure.

tomorrow is munchen!!!

typing

2009-09-15T22:12:00.000-07:00

ok followers - i will not be checking my spelling or grammer - internet costs money for time and all the keyboards are totally different everywhere we go. cant wait to see ukrainian keyboards!!

Wien

2009-09-15T22:03:00.000-07:00

So last night we dropped Andrea off at the Wien airport. Since the boys have never been to Vienna before, I told them we would spend the night here. I hate hate hate driving in vienna so as soon as we hit the main city center, I parked in a pricy lot for overnight, and we would walk-metro everywhere.

Pete and I dropped Joe off at the cathedral, drank a beer, read a map, and interneted the locations of the hostel district. We hoofed it over there before they got filled up.

We stayed at the westend city hostel. clean sheets. polite staff. internet access. laundry facility. But I did share a dorm with 6 futbal guy who trashed the bathroom... YUCK!!!!

My boya and i got a great italian dinner and then I went to bed while they explored the city at night.

Octoberfest 2009

2009-09-14T02:01:00.000-07:00

So today I spend 2 hours booking a hotel for Octoberfest - yes this is very last minute. Yes we are dumb. But i did good. We are going to be at the City Hotel Ost am Ko in Augsberg, about 40K from Munich. was only 146 EU for the whole stay - kick ass!!!

Poland for petrol

2009-09-13T15:43:00.000-07:00

Today we drove to the village of Babin, to visit our friend Peter L. He is a close friend from Slovakia, who we got to know while he was living in San Francisco a few years back. Currently he has a job that keeps him on the Polish border. He also practices Akido.

He took us to the Oravsky Hrad. Hrad is Slovak for fortress, however a hrad is also a "castle", much nicer than just a fortress. (Zamok is the typle of castle that would have a princess, all fancy etc... Think France or Austria.) This hrad was first built in the 13th century, and was never overtaken by armed forces. It has a drawbride and windows to domp hot oil on intruders. The weapons rooms were awesome - love an old axe or mace.

Afterward we visited an old village - the opposite of the castle, where the serfs resided. It looked like Hobbiton - I loved it!

Peter then took me to me his Sensei. This may have been the highlight of the day for me. Martial Arts in the tiny towns of northern Slovakia - very cool!

We finished off the evening with halushkys, fried chees and bacon. Mmmmm bacon! Sunca!!!

I can't forget to mention... We went to Poland to purchase gas/petrol because they are not on the Euro yet and it is way cheaper in Zloty. On the way back we were pulled over by the police. WE were fine and polite, no problems. But then, after we dropped off Peter, we were pulled over again, near Zilina. This was a random drinking pull over. We have German plates so we look suspicious... Andrea was driving, because she needs practice. I also have violated the contract, allowing my car into Slovakia (not allowed to have it go into any Eastern Block counties... (I this there are some EU harmonization violations with this contract, but oh well...) We only had tea for dinner, so this was not the issue for us either. The worry was that this was the first time Andrea has ever been stopped by a police officer in any country. She played it cool - no tickets! She used my technique I had told her about, act polite and a little scared, like "I am from out of town, and a little lost etc.." This works in any country if your a cute girl. She did and it worked! (I did not want a ticket since it may give away my contract violation....and cost Euro...)

Tomorrow we leave Nova Dubnica and the family. I am sad about this. But we will start a new adventure - Off to Germany!

Meeting the Mayor

2009-09-10T01:32:00.000-07:00

Yesterday - dateline 9/9/09:

The weather was totally aewesome - clear blue skys, around 24 C, (80 F?), swam in the pool 2x, went for a hike in the mountains, took a nap....

Andrea's father is very good friends with the Mayor of Trencin, so he and his wife came over for a casual dinner. They speak a little English, but not alot. I practiced my Slovak with everyone. I am pretty ballsy and hate being quiet so I got into the mix. We discussed the USA economic crisis and Detroit gang violence and crazy meth-heads in England.

Andrea's father has a fish farm in the back acers, so we had freshly caught and killed trout, grilled...mmmm...

Then we finished the day with home made apple slivovica and the futbol game. If you did not hear - Slovensko 2:0 N. Ireland = WOOT!!!! Slovensko is number one in their grouping for the first round of World Cup qualifiers. (If you are not following - the World Cup will be in South Afrika in 2010)

Today my 2 brothers (brat in Slovensko hahaha) arrive in Trencin. We have to pick them up. My brother Joe told me he did NOT get a haircut before the trip, so I have to take him to the salon - he needs to look metro before we go out to the bars. The girls here are very pretty, so he cannot look like a scrub.

Meso!!!

2009-09-09T03:23:00.000-07:00

Last night Andrea and I went for vecera in Stare Mestro Bratislava, at the Rio, a brazilian resteraunt across from the American Embassy, with her aunt and cousin.

We ordered the largest meat/meso platter. Ribs, sausage, beek steak, more ribs, more beef, corn, veggies, all on a big wooden plank. It was a meat fest!! I also had 2 Jack Daniels to wash the beef down. Heaven! And all of this was on the patio, in 78 degree summer weather with a beautiful sunset.

The American Embassy is stupid. They have a very ugly stupid iron gate wall, making it all look war-like. While the French, Japanese, Greece, Canada Embassies are all friendly facing a beautiful fountain and church square. The americans wanted a big ugly brick wall but the Slovak city government refused to permit that. So the iron gate is a compromise.